What’s the difference between Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo and Barbaresco?
Guest post by Pat Hyek
The Langhe is a wine-producing appellation in the southern part of the Italian region of Piedmont, located in the northwest corner of Italy. The Langhe includes Barolo, Barbaresco and a few other appellations. The most known grapes of the Langhe and Roera are Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetta (all reds) and Arneis (white). Coincidentally, the Langhe is also a UNESCO World Heritage site, for its incredible landscapes.
The wine produced in Barolo and Barbaresco is almost at “boutique” levels when compared to Burgundy or Bordeaux. Burgundy and Bordeaux produce approximately 185 million and 500 million bottles per year respectively, compared to 14 million and 4.5 million bottles for Barolo and Barbaresco.
Barolo vs Barbaresco vs Nebbiolo
The town of Alba separates the Barolo and Barbaresco appellations. The soils of Barbaresco are slightly sandier, less compact and have more nutrients than the Barolo terroir. The result is wines with a softer character compared to the more dense soils found in Barolo, which contribute to more tannic wines.
Barolo and Barbaresco are also distinguished not just by geography, but also by differences in the wine making process. Both wines are derived from the Nebbiolo grape. Barolo has one of the toughest aging requirements in Italy. Even the “standard” Barolo must be aged for a minimum of 38 months, spending at least 18 months in barrels made from oak or chestnut. Barolo Riserva has to be aged in the cellar for 62 months, including at least 18 months in oak, before release. Barbaresco, on the other hand, must be aged for at least two years before release, with a minimum nine months in oak.
A Nebbiolo wine that hasn’t met the above minimum aging requirements can be labeled “Nebbiolo” on the bottle, likely a “Langhe Nebbiolo”. Those grapes may have been sourced from less desirable plots (e.g. lesser sun exposure), from younger vineyards within the Barolo or Barbaresco appellations or from elsewhere within the Langhe.
Communes of Barolo
Barolo DOCG consists of 11 communes, including the five most prominent ones: Barolo, La Morra, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d’Alba and Monforte d’Alba. Each commune has different terroirs and produce Barolo of their own style.
The communes of Verduno and La Morra are located in the West and have soils higher in clay, sand and St. Agatha marls from younger geological eras. Castiglione Falletto and Barolo lie in the central area with a mixtures of soils while Serralunga d’Alba, and part of Monforte d’Alba are in the Eastern part with older calcareous soils that are high in sandstone and limestone. Barolo and La Morra tend to produce softer wines with good fruitiness. In particular, La Morra produces the softest ones with a profile of red fruit and flowers and has the highest production, approximately 40% of Barolo’s wines. Serralunga d’Alba and Monforte d’Alba produce more intense wines that benefit from longer aging.
Almost every commune has a cantina comunale in their village, e.g. Cantina Comunale di La Morra, with the wines of that specific commune available for tasting/purchase.
Subregions of Barbaresco
Barbaresco includes three towns: Barbaresco, Neive and Treiso, plus a small hamlet of Alba that is called San Rocco Seno d’Elvio. The soil and climate of the three areas are very uniform, which creates more across-the-board consistency than is found among the 11 communes in the Barolo zone.
In the town of Barbaresco, many of the smaller wine growers who do not have their own wine making operations will sell their Nebbiolo grapes to the Produttori del Barbaresco. The Produttori is a co-op of approximately 50 members with 250 combined acres of Nebbiolo grapes that are the source for around 500,000 bottles per year–80% Barbaresco (including DOCG wines) and 20% Lange Nebbiolo.
DOC vs DOCG
The Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) is the highest designation for Italian wines, while the Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC), has less strict guidelines. The point with both of these systems is that there are multiple criteria—not just a single distinguishing factor.
The DOC regulates the growing and production methods, but it can also indicate a level of quality for some wines that pass a taste test. The ‘G’ in DOCG is that additional guarantee of quality. This is established when the wineries have submitted their samples to a testing facility to test for minimal alcohol content, aging requirements and typicity. Typicity is a term that indicates the degree to which the characteristics of a wine reflect its particular geographical area (i.e. the grapes have a tradition or origin for a specific area/zone) and is influenced by terroir, grape variety and viticultural and winemaking techniques.
Traditional vs Modern wine making style in Barolo
Traditionally, Barolo wines are made with a long maceration, up to 30 days, which extracts large amounts of tannin into the wine. The wine is then aged a minimum of 18 months in large old barrels (often made from Slavonian oak) ranging in size from 5,000 – 10,000 liters. This results in practically no barrel flavor, but slow oxidation of the wine. The result is a wine that is rich in tannins and has great flavor intensity and wines that would hit peak drinking decades from their vintage.
Then along came the modernists, who desired to produce wines that were ready to drink at an earlier stage. In some cases, the must was pre-macerated to extract flavor and color. The alcoholic fermentation and maceration have shorter periods with better temperature control. This means that the tannin is extracted from the skins more quickly and in smaller quantities. The wine is then aged in small (225 liter) oak barrels, often French Oak, which at that time were typically cleaner and newer than the larger format barrels. The micro-oxygenation from the smaller barrels gives the wine softer tannins, and more body/flavor. These “modern” Barolos are generally at their peak earlier than the traditional style Barolos. Some claim the traditional style Barolos may last 50 years.
Today, the wine making experience is a blend of the modernists and traditionalists–the best of both worlds. Temperature controlled maceration over shorter periods is more common and wine makers use both the small format (225 liter) and large format (5,000 to 10,000 liter) barrels.
Where to taste wine in Barolo and Barbaresco
Giovanni Manzone in Monforte
New tasting room with great views and quality wines. Serving Barolo (Gramolere, Bricat, and Castelletto), Barbera, Dolcetto, Nebbiolo and a unique white wine grown in only a limited number of locations–Rossese Bianco. Family owned and operated by the brother and sister combo of Mauro and Mirella Manzone. Production is approximately 45,000 bottles per year and accommodates shipping to the US. Reservations are required.
Albino Rocca
Barbaresco wines from the 3 key communes in the Barbaresco region and a great cellar. Family owned and operated today by the 3 daughters of Angelo Rocca. Production approximately 100,000 bottles per year. Reservations are required.
Garesio
Alta Langa (sparkling wine), Barbera d’Alba and Asti (Nizza), Barolo (Cerretta, Gianetto and Serralunga d’Alba) and Langhe Nebbiolo are offered here. The family owned and operated facility is new and offers great veiws from the tasting room with viewing areas to see the production facility. Production approximately 85,000 bottles per year and they accommodate shipping to the US. Reservation are required.
Elvio Cogno
Serving Barbaresco, Barolo (various vineyards from the Ravera cru), Barbera, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto and a white wine, Nascetta. Modern facility with a new tasting room and fabulous views of the vineyards from the top of the hill. Production approximately 120,000 bottles per year. Reservations are required.
Where to eat in the Langhe/Barolo
La Ciau del Tornavento – Located in Treiso, this restaurant has a spectacular menu, incredible views and an amazing 60,000 bottle wine cellar.
Riccardi Il Cioccolato di Riccardi Mauro – Chocolate tasting in the town of Cherasco.
Giolito Cheese – They age many cheeses including Parmesan Reggiano and Grana Padano, in addition to many local cheeses. Sign up for the tasting and tour and if you’re lucky you’ll get Lucia. You’ll be so satiated after the tasting you likely pass on lunch.
Bra sausage – Not a particular restaurant, but this sausage is produced in Piedmont, exclusively in the town of Bra. The sausage is prepared with lean beef (70-80%) and pork fat for the remainder. Bra sausage can be eaten cooked or raw (in a fresh state). When raw it can be an appetizer or a pizza or crostini topping.
Truffle season – During January to April, you may find the winter black truffle. From May to November you’ll find the Summer Black Truffle and from mid-September to January, the famous White Truffle! Website of tours: https://www.piedmont-foodandwine.com/piedmont-truffle-hunting
Full list of Michelin star restaurants: https://guide.michelin.com/en/it/piemonte/alba/restaurants
Best tours in Piedmont / Langhe region
If you’re looking to curate a day or week, Anna Savino is your woman! A native Sonoma girl who has lived in Barolo for over twenty years, she will plan day trips (up to 7 in her touring van) to wineries, restaurants or other destinations. She’s fun, energetic and very knowledgeable of the region, the wine makers and the wine making process. She even has her own curated wine club focusing on those hard to find wines with fabulous stories to tell from Piedmont. If you write The Wine Scribes in the comments when you sign up you can get a 5% discount off the first shipment.
Tours: www.italianna.com IG: @italiannawinetours
Wine club: www.barolowineclub.com IG: @barolowineclub
anna@barolowineclub.com
