Graham Markel is the visionary behind Buona Notte, crafting deeply personal and expressive wines that speak to the unique terroir of the Columbia River Gorge. His approach blends Old World inspiration with Pacific Northwest distinction, resulting in bottles that are approachable yet captivating.
With stages at Antica Terra and Hiyu, Graham has worked at two of the most renown producers in Willamette and The Gorge (Maggie Harrison and Nate Reddy). He then started his own label in 2018 and we’ve been big fans for years; low intervention, expressive wines that pair wonderfully with food (low ABV plus bright acidity).
We finally had a chance to sit down with Graham to delve into his winemaking philosophy, the challenges and triumphs of small-batch production and the stories behind his vintages. Join us as we explore the world of Buona Notte Wines.
Interview with Graham Markel of Buona Notte Wines
Wine Scribes: Before starting your own label, you worked with Maggie Harrison at Antica Terra and Nate Reddy at Hiyu–two PNW winemaking allstars–how did you wind up there?
Graham Markel: In 2011 I was bartending in Colorado and wanted to learn more about wine, so I decided to work a harvest in Oregon. After sending a bunch of emails and resumes to folks, I wasn’t having much luck. Fortunately, Nate [working at Antica Terra before Hiyu] responded and invited me to work with him and Maggie at Antica Terra.
WS: Was Antica Terra popular back then?
Graham: Not nearly as much as today, but they were still making great wines. So I just kind of walked in there blindly, not knowing anything about it, or wine for that matter. Sure enough, I fell in love in the first couple months: Making wine, drinking it, eating good food, hanging out with Nate and Maggie.
WS: How did you make the move to Hiyu?
Graham: In 2015 Nate left Antica Terra and brought me along to start the Hiyu project in Hood River. It was much different than the Hiyu Wine Farm that is around today: We didn’t have any consumer-facing business. We were just making wine and farming and building things out; it was pretty idyllic to be honest.
Once we opened the doors to the public, I stepped into helping with food, service and doing all sorts of other tasks, which provided a great learning experience on all levels.
WS: At this point, did you know you wanted to start your own label?
Graham: I always knew that I was in it to start my own thing. So in 2016 I produced 300 cases of Sangiovese [under the Buona Notte label] at Hiyu. Three years working at Hiyu ended up being the perfect amount of time. I then met Jasper from Son of Man Cider and moved into [Cascade Locks] in 2018; that was the first year I was on my own and really going for it.
WS: How did that feel? To be on your own after years of working at other wineries?
Graham: Terrifying, but very liberating. I am extremely grateful for my dad, who started this business with me, being the most supportive mentor, a small business consultant and great guy.
So seven years later and we’re now up to 2500 cases a year on average. We just opened up a new tasting room in Portland called Appartamento in Southeast Portland.
WS: Yes! We are hoping to visit soon. How’s that been going?
Graham: It’s so much fun. One of the many things I’ve learned from Antica Terra and Hiyu is the appreciation for how wine pairs with food. So this is the first opportunity that I can run a program like this on my own; I can cook for people in a little toaster oven and pair it with my wines. So far it’s great and has been really fun to watch it grow.
WS: How do you feel that your label and style of winemaking compares to the brands of Antica Terra and Hiyu? Put another way, how do you feel you differentiated yourself from them?
Graham: Antica Terra and Hiyu share many philosophies but they also have their own distinct techniques and characteristics. I love both styles of winemaking but when I started, I leaned toward a natural winemaking style since I was at Hiyu. I think my own journey with winemaking is finding my balance between those two places.
I guess my differentiation, without trying to sound positive or negative to those two, is that I am making wines that are approachable for my generation and my friends. I don’t have the ability to charge as much as large, fancy wineries, but that’s ok; I like to make bottles that are fun, where you can sit around the table, enjoy the wines, talk about the wines but also enjoy the food and enjoy eachother.
WS: Aside from product differentiation, can you share some advice for small winemakers to overcome industry challenges like alternative beverages, Gen Z’s lack of consumption and the recent Surgeon General warning?
Creating diversity in your wine portfolio will help. We make 12 different wines and 3 different vermouths; it’s great to have a range of prices and feeling (by feeling I mean something that feels super high-end vs. something more approachable). Having this diversity will help weather the swings of market demands.
Look at offering more than just the wine: Tasting experiences, barrel tastings, and dinners. I also have a negocient-style business named Ansel where I buy really nice barrels of other producers and find delicious bulk wine opportunities. All of these things have helped me float through some of the tougher times.
Lastly, it’s all about self expression. You just have to find whatever your expression is, right? Make the wine that you like, how you like to see it, and there will be a market for it. Instead of watching markets and adapting the winemaking style, you’re better off making wines that you really believe in and that are passionate in; you’ll have an easier time selling those wines and finding your market.
