Updated December 2021
Best wineries in Stellenbosch and where to eat
Table of Contents
Overview
South Africa’s most famous wine region is located just 25 miles (40km) east of Cape Town and is centered around a university which embedded in the country’s history. The climate is hot and dry with granite and sandstone soils; Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chenin Blanc and Shiraz are the most commonly planted grape varietals.
We found that the typical winery (or as they call it, wine farm) is quite large, producing an average of 250-500,000 cases a year. At first, wine tasting in Stellenbosch was a bit disappointing, as many wine farms were touristy and opted for the scene & experience over the actual taste in the juice. That said, The Wine Scribes managed to locate some of the best small batch producers and are happy present our Stellenbosch wine tasting guide along the South Africa wine route.
History of Stellenbosch
Stellenbosch’s recorded history dates back to 1679 when Dutch settlers (part of the Dust East India Company) discovered this region and declared it great for agriculture–rich in soil and a proper climate for growing fruits & vegetables to ship to the sailors on the port of Cape Town.
Wine soon followed in the footsteps of the first planted region of Constantia (25 miles west). As agriculture and viticulture boomed, Stellenbosch University was established in 1918 and to this day is recognized as one of the leading universities on the continent.
Like many European countries, Phylloxera decimated much of the vineyards and by early 1900s, most growers, winemakers gave up on their crop. The wine industry recovered, yet was not recognized on the international level until the 1990s when Apartheid ended, removing sanctions and opening up the world’s export market; since then the country and the region in particular have experienced a renaissance.
Where to stay in Stellenbosch
Although close enough to day-trip from Cape Town (and there are numerous tour operators who will provide such a trip), you’ll want to hire a car and spend at least a few days to properly enjoy the area.
One option for housing is to stay in the downtown area and use it as a base to try different wards within Stellenbosch, plus enjoying the trendy local restaurants and nightlife. Another option is to stay further out in wine land–a lot of wine farms offer hotel stays & restaurants in order to off-set their high costs of wine production.
We did both and prefer the latter, as the downtown area can be congested and noisy with college kids partying; not exactly the “wine escape” one dreams of! We enjoyed our stay at Mont Angelis–a modern take on a B&B with scenic views and a swimming pool (perfect for that hot climate). The location is great as well, near several of our favorite wineries.
Where to taste wine in Stellenbosch
Wine Scribes searched for the smaller batch producers, tasted and concluded that these are the best wineries to visit in Stellenbosch:
- Radford Dale – At just over 40k cases in production, this is a small production (for Stellenbosch). Everything is native fermented, mostly whole cluster for reds, very little new oak, low alcohol and high acid wines. The juices illicit beautiful aromas and long finishes–their 2018 Elgin Pinot Noir is exceptional as are some of their “Antidote” Gamay and “Gravity” Cab and Syrah blend. In addition to some of the best wine in the ‘Bosch, we were blown away by the professionalism and knowledge of the cellar door staff. Appointment only, so call ahead and ask for Abi or Danielle.
- Keermont Vineyards – Buried deep in the Helderberg ward of Stellenbosch is a small-batch producer with a cult-like following producing a meer 9k cases of wine per year. The vines are on-site and are some of the highest in the region, giving the wine some bold minerality and texture. The winemaker Alex Starey naturally ferments all 13 cultivars (varietals) with light fining for the whites and zero filter for the reds. The 2017 single varietal Riverside Chenin Blanc is fantastic–extremely well balanced profile and long finish. The tasting room is located just down the street from the Mont Angelis stay and is open weekends or by appointment.
- Waterford Estate – We didn’t have high hopes when arriving at this venue (which offers wine walks and safaris), as it reminded us of several flashy wineries in Napa that are all about the scene. But were we wrong. Started by Kevin Arnold (given the nickname Mr. Shiraz), the library collection tasting was wonderful, sporting a concrete-egg-fermented 2018 Chenin Blanc and a very well balanced 2014 Bordeaux-style blend, full of intense cigar box aromas.
- Hartenberg Wine Estate – Fairly bigger in production than the others mentioned but no slouch on the quality. We enjoyed a relaxed tasting and picnic lunch with the highlights being a 2018 dry Riesling (rare for the area), a Viognier-Roussane blend and a 2005 Shiraz. The Shiraz was one of our favorite wines tasted throughout our time in Stellenbosch; such remarkable dried leather and beef jerky notes and still ripe with blackberry and blackcurrant fruit–could be aged for many more years.
- DeWaal Wines – Home of the first Pinotage. What is Pinotage? It’s a hybrid grape comprised of Pinot Noir and Cinsault. It has the light fruitiness of a Pinot, but packs a nice punch from the Rhone varietal component. When tasting here, ask for the single vineyard Pinotage tasting lineup–some only have 2,000 bottles made and are quite delicious. This is one of the wineries we discovered through our bike tour. On the tour, we learned that Pinotage was originally thought to have been a blend of Pinot Noir and Hermitage (Syrah). Further investigation proved this theory incorrect but the name stuck; perhaps because Pinotage sounds better than Pinosault.
- *Richard Hilton Vineyards – We learned about this label during an incredible lunch pairing menu at La Petite Colombe in Franschoek. The asterisk is there as Richard does not have a tasting room currently, but hopes to establish one soon. This small-batch winemaker (2,000 cases total) produces only Viognier and Syrah (both are fantastic), using minimal-intervention and natural winemaking methods. We were lucky enough to share a meal with Richard and hear his story. Keep an eye out for the label at boutique wine shops and local restaurants.
- Mullineux Wines – While technically outside of Stellenbosch (Franschoeck), this producer is well worth the trek. Chris and Andrea Mullineux worked several vintages around the world before settling in South Africa in 2007. Grapes come from the Swartland region and are beautifully made with minimal intervention in the cellar and maximum intervention on the vines. The beautiful tasting room is appointment only and situated just off the main drag of Franschoeck.
Best Restaurants in Stellenbosch
As is the case with most towns that feature a local bourgeoning wine region, Stellenbosch offers a cornucopia of dining options. We found most restaurants to be fully booked in the summer tourism season, so make sure to reserve ahead of time.
- 96 Winery Road – Proclaimed as the “Hitching Post of South Africa”; for those who don’t get the Sideways movie reference, it’s an unassuming restaurant in wine country with good food, frequented by local industry and trade professionals. Try the black pepper steak and pair it with one of the local Shiraz’s. You can also find Richard Hilton on the wine list too.
- The Fat Butcher – If you decided to spend a night or two in downtown Stellenbosch, then make sure to hit this popular eatery for grilled meats. Book ahead of time, as they will fill up very quickly; we got lucky with a last minute walk-in towards the end of the night.
- Genki Sushi – Fresh sushi in the downtown city center with a surprisingly lengthly local wine list. Go for a lunch special and enjoy some people watching in the lovely shaded courtyard.
- Stark-Conde Wines – Sometimes restaurants at wineries can just be afterthoughts or a way to generate cash for the winemaking operation. However this dining spot holds up and is worth visiting for lunch when on the wine trail. Try the local kingklip white fish and pair it with their in-house Chenin Blanc blend. Stark-Conde wines are good, with proper tastings available before or after lunch, though they didn’t crack our top wineries in Stellenbosch.
- *Braai – this isn’t a restaurant, it’s a local BBQ culture and it involves cooking meats (or veggies) over low open flames and coals. Most housing options have Braai facilities, so to mix it up one night, go get some meats at a local butcher and give it a go. Ask the butcher for advice on best Braai practices, or peruse the trove on Youtube.
Other Activities
- Bike tour – The Wine Scribes’ preferred way to see most wine regions. We found a great tour organizer, Bikes n Wines, who took us on a full day packed with cycling, learning and tasting, hitting a total of four wineries including lunch.
- Hiking – Anywhere you are in Stellenbosch, you’ll notice some jaw-dropping mountain views. Jonkershoek Nature Reserve, Hottentots-Holland Mountain, Helderberg Nature Reserve are some of our favorites. But save some energy for when you’re in Cape Town!
- Wilderness retreat – If getting away from it all is what suits you best, then check out McBains, located way up in the middle of no-where; just a few friendly guests and beautiful nature. Be sure of your driving abilities (likely stick shift if you’ve hired a car), as the ride up the Bainskloof Pass can be a white-knuckle ride for some.
- Day trip to Franschoeck – we highly recommend seeking out this small region ~30 minutes from Stellenbosch. While there, schedule a tasting at Mullineux Wines and have a meal at either La Petite Colombe (see our Cape Town post for more) or Epice. Other tasting options in the area include Le Lude (especially if you like Sparkling) and Chef’s Warehouse. If you need a palette cleanser, Hey Joe brewing company is a fun place to switch things up and try some local ales.
