Startup Winemakers: Nat Wong

Updated June 2023

We met Nat through the UC Davis Oenology program and tasted his wines shortly thereafter, as he is the Enologist at the nearby Folktale Winery in Carmel Valley. As soon as he poured us the first barrel sample, we knew he was up to something special.

With his new label Blade and Talon, Nat creates beautiful wine from overlooked varieties and unique styles–bridging the gap between the complex white wines and the easy sipping reds. His background is even more untraditional. Read on to find out why.

Our interview with Startup Winemaker, Nat Wong.

Wine Scribes: So how did you wind up taking oenology courses at UC Davis? Start from the beginning with your wine journey.

Nat Wong: I studied environmental science at UC Davis where my favorite class was Raptor Management. I did however take a viticulture class for general education units where I tasted my first wine (Riesling).  It wasn’t until I took a trip with my wife to the Loire Valley in 2018 that really got me interested in wine production.

We were in the Bourgueil AOC and had a glass of Cabernet Franc at Le Moulin Bleu. It was probably only the third time I had tasted wine. It was profound and made me realize how making wine was part of a natural cycle. My palate was undeveloped at the time, but glass was filled with notions of history, precision, evolution, and pride. It was unbelievable. I didn’t understand how the wine could affect me like it did, but I wanted to learn more.

WS: What were you doing or studying at the time of this trip?

NW: I was employed at the Monterey Bay Aquarium working with seabirds. Shortly upon our return from France, Folktale Winery gave me the opportunity to dive into that rabbit hole. After getting a 2018 Harvest Intern position at Folktale, I realized I wanted to learn as much as possible, but I wasn’t in a position to chase the Harvest between hemispheres.

I enrolled in the Winemaking Certificate Program through UC Davis Continuing Education, and completed it at the beginning of 2022. The most valuable education has been visiting as many vineyards and cellars as possible, learning from the techniques and perspectives of talented viticulturists and enologists. I got a full-time position as a Cellar Worker after the 2018 Harvest; in 2020, I produced my first Blade & Talon vintage and was promoted to Enologist in 2021. 

WS: Wow what a complete change. From working with Seabirds to keeping birds away during harvest! How did you end up taking the leap and producing your own label while working at Folktale?

My Cellar Master in 2019, Brad Ely, told me that the best way to improve my winemaking skills was to simply make my own wine. I had to make all of the decisions: locating grapes, when and how to hravest, fermentation, aging and more. I also designed my own labels and figured out how to obtain glass and closures. All of these tasks with my own money on the line.

Trying to sell the wine is the hardest part. But luckily the 55 cases I produced all sold out in a few months. Brad is the winemaker at Grey Wolf Cellars now, in Paso Robles. He continues to advise and encourage me. He really taught me a lot, and his initial push was really the impetus for Blade & Talon.

WS: He sounds like a great mentor and coach. Looking towards the future, where do you see the label going ten years from now?

NW: I don’t really want to open a traditional tasting room, because it sounds like a lot of time and money that I would rather spend on making wine. I hope to have a small winemaking facility to process 50 tons of grapes for 8-10 different SKU’s. Here I’d host periodic parties to celebrate wine releases, and otherwise move DTC sales through online channels.

Maintaining a small portion of wholesale would be cool to see your labels in a store or restaurant that you support and patronize. I would probably have raptor facilities on the property and instead of growing a bunch of vines; I would use a natural space to fly the birds everyday.

Blade & Talon Wine, California Central Coast

Vintages released: 2020, 2021
Cases Produced: 55 (2020), 200 (2021), 600-800 (planned 2022)
Varietals: Skin-contact Muscat (orange), Falanghina, Aglianico, Rose of Cabernet Sauvignon/Petit Verdot/Cabernet Pfeffer, Ruchè, Négrette, Cuvee of Négrette/Malbec/Cabernet Franc

WS: Falanghina, Cabernet Pfeffer, Ruchè, Orange Muscat.. wow. You’re working with some pretty untraditional varieties. Can you talk a little about the history and reasoning for using these?

NW:

• Orange Muscat – Muscat is probably the oldest known grape variety, with over 200 derivatives now. I see a lot of people mix cheap orange juice and cheap sparkling wine to make mimosas. I would rather try to make something similar, but fermented directly in the bottle. This fragrant variety is underutilized and its true origins are unknown.
• Falanghina – This grape has been farmed in Campania since the 7th century, but only approved by the TTB in 2014, so many US consumers haven’t even heard of it. It has traditionally been used as a blending grape, but I’d like to showcase it. It grows well near Mt. Vesuvius, and I think the vineyard in San Benito AVA features similar growing conditions, since it lies between the Calaveras Fault and San Andreas Faults. It is a coastal grape that is evocative of my life at the beautiful union between land and sea in Monterey.
• Cabernet Sauvignon/Petit Verdot/Cabernet Pfeffer – These grapes are for the Clairet-style Rose Madder. Cabernet Pfeffer is basically extinct outside of San Benito County, and its origins there go back to the mid to late 1800’s. 
• Ruchè – When tasted blind, many people have a hard time identifying it as a red or a white wine. It only came into DOCG status in 2011. This is another grape that has a mysterious origin, but it’s grown now in Piedmont.
• Négrette – This is my favorite variety, and another uncommon grape. There are only two small AOCs that specialize in it: Fiefs Vendéens in the Loire Valley, and Fronton, north of Toulouse. It is very perfumed, with a dark, inky color. They can be challenging grapes to work with, since they can be prone to mildew (small fruit/tight clusters), and can be low in acid. 

WS: Talk about what it’s like producing your own label inside Folktale Winery? Where do you source your fruit?

NW: Since I am the Enologist at Folktale, it is very convenient. The owner, Greg Ahn, has been super supportive of my endeavors, and helps me distribute the wine, too. For fruit, I work primarily with John Siletto of Circle S Vineyards, in Tres Pinos. I only started with a single ton of grapes for my first vintage. No vineyard manager was taking me seriously, which I understood, because I was not a profitable customer like their larger contracts.

At the time, John’s dad, Ron, invited me out to his vineyard in the San Benito AVA, and spent hours talking with me and giving me a tour of his vines. He was so warm and welcoming and asked me earnest questions about my approach to winemaking. During my visit, he handed me glass of Barbera rosé that another producer had made from his grapes. He said, “This grape is an acid bomb. What are you going to do about that?” My very first wine was made from a half ton of his Barbera that year.

Later I learned that he passed away, but I was intent on honoring the contract agreement I made with him. I dedicated my first vintage was dedicated to the late Ron Siletto and was happy to receive 90 points from Wine Enthusiast for my first release: Barbera rosé and 91 points-Editor’s Choice for my Négrette.

WS: That’s a great story and kudos for signing contracts with top level farmers despite your small production size. We know from personal experience what a challenge that is. Tell us about some of your inspirations: Who has had the biggest influence on your personal winemaking style? 

I am greatly influenced by Loire style wines; higher acid, lower alcohol and bucolic sensations beyond the fruit. My old cellar master, Brad, really shared with me natural winemaking techniques, avoiding inoculations and even filtration. Ryan Stirm, of Stirm Wine Co., inspired me to be courageous and to try new things and think outside of the box when it comes to problem-solving and being creative in the cellar.

Chris Miller, from Seabold Cellars, showed me how to be gracious and giving with the winemaking community. He donated fermentation bins for me to use, and he has been extremely supportive and encouraging to me since my first vintage. Denis Hoey, from Odonata Wines, is the coolest guy, and most importantly reminds me to have fun and be thankful for the opportunity to make wine and share it.

WS: Ok let’s switch it up with some rapid fire questions..

WS: Besides where you are now, what is your favorite wine region and why? 

Livermore Valley. This is another historic region. They had orginal cuttings of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc from Château d’Yquem. This region can also claim the first wine to wine a competition in France, at the 1889 Paris Exposition. The biggest wineries there were eatblished in the 1880’s.

The area is hot, but it receives cooling winds from the SF Bay, as the valley is oriented east-west. The soils are gravelly and have good drainage. I think a host of varieties would and do grow well here. When I was a kid, my dad was sponsored by Wente for cycling, and I also grew up in the tri-valley area. There are a lot of smaller wineries and AP’s that are making quality stuff.

WS: What is one of the biggest challenges in the wine world?

Maintaining a social media presence. I made a new Instagram account for Blade & Talon, but I am actually a hermit, and have never participated in any social media in my life. In the early 2000’s when everyone started getting cell phones, I had a Nokia that resembled a brick. It was great, and there was no pressure to do anything but pretend you didn’t hear the phone ring.

WS: what’s the most rewarding part of what you do?

When my wife wants me to reserve a case of wine just for her. She’s so awesome, and without her, I probably wouldn’t try so hard. 

WS: Ok Nat, thank you! Please tell our ‘Scribers how to get in touch and obtain your wine!

NW:

• Website: www.bladeandtalon.com
• Instagram: @bladeandtalonwine
• Buy wines: www.folktalewinery.com
• Email: bladeandtalon@gmail.com