Exploring the Wines of the Canary Islands
Sun-drenched beaches and volcanic landscapes are just the beginning when it comes to the Canary Islands. This captivating archipelago, owned by Spain, is nestled off the coast of Morocco and boasts a unique wine scene shaped by dramatic terrain, volcanic soils, and a history as rich as its volcanic earth. Let’s embark on a wine-focused adventure through the Canaries, exploring the islands’ distinct terroirs and the delectable wines they produce.
Terroir of the Canary Islands: A Land Forged in Fire
Unlike most Spanish wine regions, the Canaries haven’t encountered the devastating phylloxera pest. This translates to pre-phylloxera vines, some reaching centuries old, adding a layer of heritage to the wines. Volcanic eruptions have played a starring role in shaping the islands’ terroir. Basalt, volcanic ash, and lapilli (gravel-sized volcanic rock) dominate the soil composition, creating excellent drainage and imparting a distinctive minerality to the wines.
The mountainous topography adds another dimension. Vineyards often cling to steep slopes at high altitudes, benefiting from cooling Atlantic breezes and ample sunshine. This interplay of sun, wind, and elevation results in wines with vibrant acidity, a hallmark of Canarian wines.
Island Hopping Through Wine Regions
Six of the Canary Islands produce wine, each with its own distinct character:
- Tenerife: Tenerife, the largest island, is also the leading wine producer. Look for bold Listán Negro reds with notes of black fruits and volcanic earth, alongside aromatic whites like Listán Blanco and Malvasía. The island’s unique Denominaciones de Origen (DOs) – Abona, Tacoronte-Acentejo, Valle de la Orotava, Ycoden-Daute-Isora, and Valle de Guimar – reflect the diverse microclimates within Tenerife.
- Lanzarote: Lanzarote’s dramatic volcanic landscape is a sight to behold. The island’s signature viticulture practice involves planting vines in hoyos (“holes”) dug into the volcanic ash. This protects the vines from the strong winds and helps retain moisture in the arid climate. Malvasía shines here, offering dry whites with citrus and mineral notes.
- Gran Canaria: This island boasts a diverse range of grape varieties, including the indigenous Albillo Monte Lentiscal, known for its floral and citrusy whites. Look for vibrant whites and light-bodied reds made from Listán Negro and Listán Blanco grapes.
- La Palma: La Palma, known as the “Isla Bonita” (Pretty Island), is home to the Albillo Criollo grape, producing aromatic whites with floral and tropical fruit notes. The island’s unique geography, with steep slopes and volcanic soils, contributes to the wines’ minerality and complexity.
- El Hierro: The smallest and westernmost Canary Island, El Hierro, is a rising star in the Canarian wine scene. The indigenous Verijadiego Blanco grape produces refreshing, mineral-driven whites that pair beautifully with seafood.
- La Gomera: La Gomera, known for its lush Garajonay National Park, is a smaller producer but offers intriguing wines. The local Forastera Blanca grape produces aromatic whites with floral and citrus notes.
Wine tasting on Tenerife
If you find yourself on the island of Tenerife, be sure to visit Bodegas Viñatigo – a boutique producer making exceptional wines. There are so many things to like about their practice that we had to make a list:
- Ancient own-rooted vines
- Old-school farming practices
- Skin contact amphora fermentation
- Nods to Jura with one-barrel Vin Jeaune style wine
- 100% gravity flow production
- Sustainable energy workflow
- No fining, filtration nor SO2 additions.
We first tasted a bottle of Viñatigo (Tinto Ancestrales) in 2018 during our internship in Burgundy and it was (and still is) one of the best bottles we’ve ever tasted. During our visit recently, we fell in love with their whites as well. Do not miss this producer! Reservations recommended.
Headed to Lanzarote? Pay a visit to Bodegas Bermejos for the crispy Malvasia bianco and savory Listan Negro! Not to mention, the incredible moon-like landscape.
Beyond the Grapes: A Winemaker’s Paradise
The Canary Islands offer a unique playground for winemakers. The combination of volcanic soils, cooling Atlantic breezes, and sunshine allows for experimentation with both indigenous and international grape varieties. Winemakers are increasingly embracing sustainable practices, employing traditional techniques like manual harvesting and minimal intervention winemaking.
A Toast to Adventure: Planning Your Wine Tour
The Canary Islands offer an unforgettable wine tourism experience. Each island boasts stunning scenery, charming villages, and, of course, delicious wines. Many wineries offer tours, tastings, and the opportunity to learn about their unique winemaking practices. Here are some tips for planning your Canarian wine adventure:
- Choose your island: Research the different islands and their wine styles to find one that suits your palate.
- Plan your itinerary: Factor in winery visits, local attractions, and relaxation time. Book tours and accommodation in advance, especially during peak season.
- Embrace the local flavors: Pair your wine exploration with delicious Canarian cuisine. Sample fresh seafood, local cheeses, and traditional dishes like papas arrugadas (wrinkled potatoes) with mojo sauces.
The Canary Islands offer a captivating blend of volcanic landscapes, rich history, and exciting wines. So, raise a glass to a unique wine adventure and embark on a voyage through the heart of the Canaries, one sip at a time!
